Manicou River Resort

Manicou River was a really cool place to stay. We had a week in Dominica and split our time between the north and south. The views and just the experience of being 'outside' while in our cottage was really nice. In the south we stayed at a more typical resort (Jungle Bay), and it was a nice contrast between the two. If you're coming all the way to Dominica, it's likely for the nature, and this is the best way to experience it. The view at night of the lights from the yachts in Rupert's Bay and Portsmouth was really beautiful. We had a sundowner every evening at the main lodge and then a really tasty three course meal, mmm good. The staff are excellent, and gave us suggestions on where to eat & stop for snacks. They got up early to make breakfast for us earlier one morning cause we had a birdwatching excursion. If you have a rental, it's a bit tricky to find the cut-off from the main road to start up the hill. Eventually there are signs but i had use Google satellite view to figure out the initial turn. Once we figured it out it was pretty easy, it's very steep but not too bad. It does get hot during the day in the cottage, but we were out touristing and just put the blinds down to prevent heat building up. Also, there was a strong breeze later in the afternoon that provides a nice cross-breeze in the cottage, which kept away almost all the bugs. The mosquito net is also good. The shower is functional and really refreshing after a day out. The wifi in the room was excellent. There was just one plug to charge phones, but it had a 4-USB charger provided (or maybe a previous guest forgot it), so we were good to go. It's a good base to explore the north end of the island, including around Calibishie, and birdwatching in Syndicate Nature Trail. It's about 90 minutes driving time to Soufriere, longer if you stop along the way as we did to sightsee and have lunch in Mero Beach. Overall we really enjoyed our stay, and I would definitely recommend Manicou River, especially if you're splitting your time between the north and south.

Manicou River is a place to go to relax and recharge. You might, before arriving, have an itinerary in mind, but once you arrive and settle in, there is a feeling that where you are is all you need. Many other visitors have commented on the spectacular view from the cottages; the whole panorama - the Caribbean ocean, the peninsula which is now Cabrits National Park and which houses Fort Shirley, the sky, the clouds, the light of the sun, the frequent rainbows….there is endless movement and variation. One cannot help but be drawn into and appreciate the what is right before your eyes. If you do feel compelled to wander out of the Manicou’s grounds, it’s a doable walk to Portsmouth, where there are pleasing, quiet beaches and several nice local dining options. The weekend market was really lively and provided an authentic slice of local culture… definitely worth going to. As Dominica is a relatively small island you can stay anywhere and do day trips to pretty much anywhere on the island. While staying at Manicou, I went on several nature oriented trips – a birding day, a visit to hot and cold springs, waterfalls,…nature hikes. While most tours originate in Roseau, some tours will pick up guests from Portsmouth for an extra fee. A private driver can be arranged from almost any location. While I did not drive on this vacation, from what I could see, the local style of driving was relaxed and safe and the roads were well maintained. There are local buses that leave from a station area in central Portsmouth and go to downtown Roseau – the most economical way to get there, but a bit of an adventure as there is no real schedule and privately run buses leave when the driver determines there are enough people on board. I travelled to Manicou midsummer, at low season and stayed for 10 days. Because Manicou only has a handful of guests at any given time, the experience is more personalized – you get to know the people who look after Manicou and look after you. There is just the right balance between being their being present and taking care of a traveller’s needs, and being left on your own and finding privacy. Nothing feels forced or contrived – which is the vibe of the country itself. Thank you to Kayola and all the wonderful, warm people at Manicou for their nurturance. You can sense that development of the area of just around the corner – with posters for upcoming waterfront projects, an expanded marina, and a large highway being constructed from the airport. A Relais and Chateux hotel, (Secret Bay) is close by, so that speaks volumes. Manicou has a vision – one that works with nature not against it. Manicou is that sweet spot between roughing it and overdoing it; there is a rustic simplicity to the cottages, but at the same time, you want for nothing. I am grateful that there are places like Manicou that are striving to get the eco-balance right. I was sent this list of things to bring to Manicou which I found helpful… Good walking shoes

We were blown away by the views from our open fronted cottage. It was more rustic that we thought but beautifully done. We very much enjoyed our stay. The food was local cuisine and very good. We were made to feel very welcome by Yolanda and Jennifer so a big thank you to them. Kate also thank you to you for your understanding as our flight was cancelled and we were delayed a day. There are just three cottages and we were only ones staying.

The night we arrived, we had drinks and dinner at the bar and restaurant. The cocktails were served with very little ice and we kept having to ask for more, which they doled out sparingly. Dinner was adequate and mediocre. After dinner in our cabin, the heat was stifling. Our cabin faced west and the setting sun heated our room unbearably. The single shade was totally inadequate. After the sun set, the no-see-ums attacked! That lasted an hour until the mosquitos came in. Between the heat and mosquitos, no one slept in either cabin. Everyone had multiple bug bites on our legs and arms. The next morning, we sought and found other accommodations. We explained the situation to the manager. She said she would prepare our bill and apologized for our discomfort. She said she would text me the amount the next day. I expected to pay for the first night and maybe 1 additional night. She texted me after 2 days to tell me she had charged my card fot the entire stay. That is just wrong! Little Ice Mediocre food No screens Inadequate fan Plenty of Mosquitos. ASK BEFORE YOU GO!

Words can’t quite describe the sense of peace we felt on our stay at Manicou River. The moment we stepped into our open air cottage, all of our cares seemed to be lifted away. Nighttime was nearly magical, listening to all the sounds of nature. The bed and linens with the mosquito net surrounding it, made for the best sleep. The room was equipped with all we needed, we even cooked once with all the fresh produce we picked up on an adventure out. But the rest of the meals we wanted to eat at the restaurant. The view was amazing and the food was so delicious and plentiful. Each of the employees are the sweetest, most kind and caring people, who are there to ensure you are getting the most from your time at Manicou River and Dominica. Any questions or concerns are answered. Manicou River may not be for everyone, as it is a bit rustic, but in the most romantic way. If you require a ton of amenities, then you may be disappointed. But if you want to connect with your loved one in complete peace and with no distraction, and you love nature, then you won’t be disappointed. It truly was on the top of my List of favorite places I’ve ever been. I’ll hold those memories forever.

Tucked away in Portsmouth, Dominica you will find a small, paradisal eco resort called Manicou River. On 21 September 2022, at 10am, Aaron and I departed Guyana, transited through Barbados, and finally arrived at 6:30pm at the Nature Island - Dominica. In pouring rain, we rented a car and excitedly began our journey to find Manicou River. Making some stops along the way, and being careful on the winding, wet roads, we finally arrived at about 8:30pm. Kayola greeted us and we immediately knew she was going to be a great host. Dinner that night was perfection! Yolanda cooked up a three course storm and Aaron and I shared Manicou’s flavoured rum. We were thoroughly satisfied and this was jus the first night! We felt right at home. Kayola then showed us to our cabin which was completely eco-friendly and very cosy (we slept like babies each night here). We could not have asked for a more romantic escape. This was it. Since our cabin was tucked away in a mountain and within the trees, the next morning I shook Aaron awake at exactly 6am, “Look!”. It was the most beautiful, most serene, most utopian view I’ve ever experienced in my life. I am not sure the photos and videos I took can do this view justice, but then again, what camera can truly capture nature? That morning breakfast at Manicou was a spread and it remained that way until 25 September 2022 when we had to say our goodbyes. Oh, and you’ll meet one Miss Cleo (their dog)! She’s shy at first but nothing a piece of chicken cannot solve. After that you’re likely to be knocked over when she runs by to lick you or give you hugs :D Yolanda and Kayola have truly outdone themselves on our entire trip and they’ve helped us to feel right at home. I could not have asked for a better vacation than that experienced at Manicou River.